I've not written something since 2022, well that's not true. I do spreadsheets and emails for a living so I've written lots, but for pay. I've not written here in years, which is a shame. Mostly because I like doing it, but also because it's fun to reminisce, reading what's here.
My regrets aside, this year I was in Rome. A decision that wasn't so much made as opted into. My partner, Sofia, is half Italian. The other half is Derby + Ukrainian. As such she's been to Italy quite a bit, and Rome is one of her mum, Angela's, all time favourite places.
The dates were floated to me, Thursday the 29th of May to Tuesday the 3rd of June. I had to check forecasting and statutory reporting timetables, but it looked like we wouldn't be immersed in any of that. So I said yeah, I'm in. Prior to setting off we created a WhatsApp group, because how else are we going to coordinate?!
 |
| That's what it looks like, will come onto the photo in due course |
With that now in place, tickets and accommodation were booked. I stayed well out of administration, thank you Lukyn and Sofia! It was a flurry of Air BnB, Booking.com. google, etc.
I also set up a google maps list of places we could hit, that were off the beaten path. I'm not into touristy things, mostly because you can see that stuff on TV, online, etc. The odds and sods, the bits that you won't see on travel shows, that's what I want to know.
 |
| 66 restaurants, museums, viewpoints, etc, ambitious? |
Sofia's mum would later ask me if I'd been to Rome before. I joked I was there all the time, the jovial tone was lost through the interconnected tubes we call the information super highway, she thought I had...
I should mention that it was a 5 person trip
- Sofia - my partner
- Angela - Sofia's mother
- Lukyn - Sofia's brother
- Alistair - Lukyn's partner
- Me - misc
Once the accommodation was decided on I added it to the list/map. The next question was how were we going to get from the airport to the accommodation? I assumed we'd walk/public transport, but it'd take us ages and our host had offered to arrange a van, at a reasonable price. So that's what we opted for.
I made my list, and the night before packed too much stuff.
 |
| I have a google sheet of possible things I need to pack for various trips, as you can see it's quite exhaustive |
Once it is October the third as I write this, my memory is hazy, as we've since bought and moved house. Plus I went to my first, and possibly only, hen do. Things that loom large in the memory. The minutiae of what happened the night before are... not present. Also it's Friday, I'm fasting, and I have some kind of hip/back issue that's appeared, meaning I've missed a comedy gig, and probably a trip to Peterborough to see Rick and Swap! None of us live in Peterborough, but it's an equidistant drive.
Back to Rome! Well the morning of our flights changed slightly, from East Midlands Airport, EMA, at 1210 instead of 1155, drastic I know, we'd arrive in Rome at 15:45. Sometime between 08:00 and 09:00 we drove to Sofia folks place in Derby, there her dad was full of cold, so sensibly kept his distance. There was some discussion about a speaker, whether it should come to Rome or not. He very kindly gave us some Euros for the journey.
 |
| All aboard. |
 |
| New fleece I only wore to Rome, it's too nice for everyday wear, for now. |
We stride into EMA, nostalgic, I think we've all flown from there a lot over the years. I think you have to pay to drop people off there now, madness! Walking around we apparently walk straight past Alastair and Lukyn. Who'd were not hand luggaging, they'd checked their big bag in. Angela and I guarded our bags whilst Sofia went water shopping?
We also possibly took turns bag guarding whilst the rest of the group went to the bathroom. Classic airport manoeuvre.
We ended up at the Castle Rock Tap Room, alas I have the gout and can not drink beer, cider, etc. But the group has now assembled!
 |
| I think I had a yogurt bowl, it was underwhelming, some flight crew ordered so much food and had to pack it all up and dash on the table next to us. |
We were chatting about what we could do every day, I had no idea. But I was steadfastly against touristy bits, as I didn't want the exact same experience everyone has. Sofia wanted to go to the Pantheon, as it has knocked her off her feet the first time. Me and Lukyn were the only two who hadn't been to Rome before. Also from left to right me, Sofia, Alistair, Lukyn, Angela. Please refer to list under the map up top for how we are related etc!
From here it's a whizz to the gate, flight, seats bags up, announcements. Trying to fall asleep on the plane, neck pillows not really working, turbulence. It was a bit of a choppy landing, I've had a few turbulence before but I'm far from a regular flier. Angela would later tell the group she shared a moment with another passenger which confirmed how bad the turbulence had been. Also that the particular model of plane was apparently notorious for it.
Also there were a few failed group photo attempts at the table before the flight:
 |
| I wouldn't count this as a fail, but it was a no for one reason or other. |
Then there was the panoramic that Angela and I sabotaged, one on purpose and one by accident.
This became our photo for the WhatsApp group, told you I'd explain it 100,000 words or so ago. We land collect bags, Lukyn changes into shorts, and we head outside. Alistair declares "Burn me daddy", to the Italian sun. We walk about and stand near the bus bit and taxi bit. Our host had told us that she would organise a van for us, we'd have to pay in cash. No van appears, Lukyn messages our Airbnb host, Marina. She says she's on it, we wait some more, then nothing. She tells us to catch two taxis that will cost the same as the van. So we amble over to the taxi rank.
 |
| Where we stood, the U shaped turning is where the taxis were. |
We're given a ticket, the cost from the airport is fixed into the city. Alas we were heading slightly out so we'd be paying a bit more. Lukyn and Alastair get in one taxi, Sofia, Angela, and I, get in another. Our guy is a bit of a loose unit, in a hurry, somewhat funny, but mostly a belligerent city driver. He asks for 50 euros, Angela hands him 60, he says he'll get a really nice coffee with his tip, we laugh. We soon find out he'd overcharged us, the taxi Lukyn and Alastair had taken had paid less than 50, I think.
We walk into the courtyard and it's pretty AF. If you're curious click the link and enjoy the overt extravagance of Belle Arti Apartment - Piazza del Popolo - Villa Borghese. I notice there are grape vines growing over the entranceway.
 |
| Pay attention to the grapes, not my face, or my neck cushion, or exponentially greying beard... if you look at the reflection in my eyes? |
Our host is full of bluster and greetings. She takes us in and it smells of jasmine, big ol' jasmine hedges. Impressive. Very Maximus Decimus Meridius. The inside of the building is much cooler, Sofia touches the marble and is thrilled by how cool it is. Marina reaches the door and explains it needs to be unlocked 4 times or something, its a big wooden door. The door doesn't open, she has to go to her flat and access the deadbolt on this one.
We briefly discuss what's happening, I think it's weird that she can access our place from hers somehow. We hear the door opening from the inside. Then another few minutes, she arrives behind us and explains how to open the door. We walk through and she sits down and confesses something. She had tried to book the van, no luck, but she'd forgotten to chase or try any other company. Until we landed and asked. There's a silence, she looks dramatic and distressed. She wants forgiveness before we move on, someone reassures her, we move on.
There's a city requirement to take passport details, Angela is very particular that hers doesn't get damaged, the new ones can be a little fragile. Marina then launches into a tour, and continues to tell us about things we could do throughout the days, places to eat, typical Roman lunches, price points, immigrants can't cook like Italians, etc. This goes on for, I honestly don't know. But when we sit down in the living room diner, Alistair shows me Sofia's message "Shoot me now", or something to that effect. After what feels like too long again, she leaves. We gather ourselves and head out towards Piazza del Popolo, lots of options near there or on the way.
It's a Friday so I'm vegetarian, I'm mostly vegetarian anyway. But I try to observe this tradition, a Hindu one as I'm a Shaivite Hindu, I think, or so I've been told. What if it's an elaborate joke and I'm actually a Vaishnavite?! A little light Hindu humour for you, not that funny right? Exactly.
We opt for Pastasciutta, fresh pasta, chain place, somewhere you can eat out relatively well for not so much. Or so Marina tells us.
With pasta in hand we head off towards the obelisk, yes we are in Rome.
A group one, Angela took, hence why she isn't in it?
 |
| Notice anything... suggestive? |
Pasta is good, there are two old boys behind us shooting the shizz. We finish up, head to the corner shop before heading back to the Airbnb. I think I had grand ideas about oats for breakfast to try and hold back the torrent of pasta, cured meat, gelato etc.
Once back we chat, and hit the sack, or maybe I hit the sack, this bit is hazy to say the least.
 |
| The short version of what we did on Friday, I was solo for the bit that goes north. |
 |
| Personal highlight from the walk, two beer hooded crow |
After my solo jaunt north, back at the Airbnb, we reconvene, breakfast, and head out to the Vatican? St. Peter's Basilica, it's a hot day. The party is split slightly by the variation in walking speed. Alistair and Lukyn and blistering quick, Sofia and Angela are more chill. I can do either so am torn between both parties. The queuing is next level, I spot someone wearing an anime shirt. I forget which anime, One Piece? I'm rocking an anime shirt too, alas it's a little obtuse so unless you watch the end credit scenes of anime on the reg you will not get it.
 |
| Lost in paradise? |
We get in and it's searingly hot, and there's a march towards the inside. It's pretty spectacular, but the volume of people is super distracting!
 |
| Bit lolly buff as Sofia and I are want to say from time to time. |
As we walk around it's all super ostentatious, opulent, next level stone work, polished, gilded, busy. It was hard for me to enjoy it as it felt like everyone was in a hurry, and I need to be too. Its felt like a theatrical experience, its over the top beauty distracting from any spiritual quiet. If I were to visit again, I’d try to find the moments of stillness, dawn, midnight, whenever footfall falls.
 |
| Time and death? |
We're out and hungry, hot as can be. Sofia remembers there's a little place not too far. So off we go, past the good gelato place her and food spouse Witty found. Lukyn and Alistair are not keen on the menu so head off to find something more their speed. The place is called and È Passata la Moretta | Osteria Romana di un Tempo it's definitely worth a visit if you're ever in Rome.
 |
| The Chanel advert in the background really completes the ancient water feature situation. |
 |
| Squad recharging in the shade, not Alistair's optimised sun seeking |
We get to the Pantheon, it's busy. It's about 17:00ish, not my use of about and ish to hedge the approximateness of the time. We briefly discuss, I'm a little numb to the situation atm, we head in and there's little opportunity to really look at anything, people be moving.
 |
| Before we got in |
 |
| Just after we left, photo bomb mastery, also Alistair lost his sunnies on the way to our accommodation, day 1. |
It was at this point we split the party, Alistair, Lukyn, and Angela carried on their Roman adventure that day. Sofia and I went back to the apartment. The grabbed ups a few slices of pizza for dinner from this place, square pizza, solidly ok.
